2018 Bouzeron AOC, Jean-Claude Ramonet

Bouzeron AOP, Côte Chalonaisse, Bourgogne

Aligoté gets serious here. It’s not often we see this kind of intensity with this grape. The heat of 2018 was still no match for its natural acidity, but it gave density and weight—providing a textural counterbalance. A well-made wine. Worthy of cellaring another 3-5 years, maybe longer.

N Stony and saline—rock beach at low tide. The clean, pearly side of an oyster shell. If you’re looking for fruit, forget it.

P Tightly wound from start to finish. Searing acid. Surprising weight on the midpalate. Subtle spice on the finish with a touch of that introverted, bottle-conditioned character. This wine wants to be served warmer than you think. Let it sit in the glass a little longer before pairing it with something rich and salty. Think cacio e pepe with miso butter, Kizami nori and toasted sesame ;).

$ British Columbia, private wine shops—$65

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2022 Natte Valleij ‘Nat’ Pinotage

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Mullineux Old Vines White 2019